What are the installation methods for engineered wood flooring?

There are four main methods: glue-down, nail/staple-down, floating, and click-lock installation.

Can I install engineered wood flooring myself?

Yes, if you have the necessary skills, floating or click-lock installation methods are suitable DIY options.

What kind of subfloor is best for installing engineered wood flooring?

Ideally, a clean, dry, and level subfloor made of plywood or concrete is recommended.

How to install engineered wood flooring

Looking to give your home the natural, timeless look of solid wood flooring at a more affordable price without high maintenance? Engineered wood flooring may be the right choice. With a real hardwood top layer and a smart multi-layer core made of plywood or HDF, it offers the elegance of real wood with enhanced durability and moisture resistance. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the four most common methods for installing engineered wood flooring, step by step. Whether you’re planning a DIY project or hiring a professional, knowing how to install engineered wood flooring can give you a better overview of the process and help you achieve flawless results

Common Installation Methods

Depending on the subfloor, there are four methods for installing engineered wood flooring: glue down, nail or staple down, and float. Whichever method you choose, you will need to prepare the subfloor by cleaning, levelling, checking, and adjusting the door gap.

Nail Down

Nailing down engineered wood flooring is a traditional method that ensures a secure and long-lasting installation. This technique is ideal for wooden subfloors and is commonly used by professional installers because it requires specific tools and skills.

Stapling Down

Installing with staples is very similar to nailing, except that stapling requires inserting the staples into the tongue at a 45-degree angle. Additionally, stapling is generally a quicker method than nailing.

Glue-Down

The glue-down method is ideal for wood and concrete subfloors, especially for high-traffic areas, as it ensures a permanent bond between the boards and the subfloor. It is also recommended as the more suitable option for installing engineered wood flooring in areas with underfloor heating.

Floating

The floating floor installation method is a common choice for engineered wood floors. In this DIY-friendly method, the planks are interlocked together using either a tongue-and-groove system (T&G) or a click-lock system. The T&G method requires glue to lock the planks in place, while the Click-Lock method allows the planks to lock into place without adhesive. When the floor expands, the entire floor moves together as one unit.

Preparing for Engineered Wood Installation

By now, we’ve explored the different methods of installing engineered wood flooring and how each works. Regardless of your chosen method, there are a few essential preparation steps to take before you begin. Below are the key steps to prepare your space for installation.

Tools

To ensure that your flooring installation is done correctly, you should first take the following steps:

Essential for All Installation Types

Tape measure
Pencil or pen
Spirit level (2m recommended)
Ruler
Safety glasses
Cleaning gloves
Bucket
Knee pads
Spacers (¼ inch recommended)
Rubber mallet
Tapping block
Pull bar
Hand saw or electric chop saw
Jigsaw (for detailed cuts)
Floor transitions and mouldings
Matching wood sealant
Moisture metre (recommended for checking subfloor moisture levels)
Underlay (if required)

Additional for Floating Installation

Wood glue

Additional for Glue-Down Installation

Flexible wood flooring adhesive
Trowel (for spreading glue)

Additional for Nail/Staple Installation

Flooring nailer or staple gun
Nails or staples
Nail punch

you can buy engineered accessories from Flooring surgeon:

Underlay for engineered flooring

Measuring the room

To determine how many engineered wood planks you’ll need, measure the length and width of your room in metres. Multiply these two numbers to calculate the total square metres. Then, check how many square metres are covered by one pack of flooring—this is usually stated on the packaging. Divide your room’s total area by the pack coverage to determine how many packs you need. Adding an extra 5–10% is wise to allow for cuts, mistakes, and future repairs.

Preparing the subfloor

Before installing, make sure the subfloor is ready for the new flooring. Remove any skirting boards, old nails or staples and loose dirt.

Check the humidity

In UK homes, a relative humidity of 45-65% is considered normal. Timber-based and concrete subfloors should have a moisture content (MC%) of no more than 12% when tested with a prong meter or below 3% when measured with a concrete moisture metre. As different metres may use varying scales, it is essential to read the manufacturer’s instructions. In addition, the subfloor should be level and not vary more than 3mm in a one-metre span to create a smooth and stable surface suitable for flooring installation.

Checking the Package

Carefully open a package and check that the planks’ colour, quality, and finish are as expected. Ensure each flooring is intact before installation, as the supplier may not replace the wood flooring afterwards.

Acclimatise the Planks

Once you have approved the flooring’s condition, you must acclimate it to the environment. Engineered wood expands and contracts with temperature changes, which can cause the floor to buckle if not properly adapted. Keep the planks flat in the room for 48 to 72 hours. During this time, ensure the room’s temperature and humidity align with the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Stack the planks in piles of no more than three, leaving at least 4cm of space between each stack to allow for proper air circulation. If your flooring will be laid over underfloor heating, place the planks directly on the floor and spread them out individually. Begin by running the heating at a low, comfortable temperature, then increase it by 2°C every two days until you reach your desired maximum. After that, the temperature is gradually lowered by 2°C every two days until it reaches the minimum comfortable level.

Installation Methods

We will explain each method step by step below:

Nailing down

Start by placing spacers around the room, leaving a ¼” gap between the wall and the planks. This gap allows the wood to expand.

First Row

Begin by positioning the plank with the tongue facing towards the centre of the room. Pre-drill holes near the wall, about 1 inch away and 3-4 inches apart. Pre-drilling helps prevent the wood from cracking and makes it easier to insert the nails. Secure the planks by nailing through the tongue with finishing nails.

Countersink Nails

After nailing the planks, use a nail punch to drive the nails below the surface for a cleaner finish.

Fill Nail Holes

Once the nails are countersunk, fill the holes with wood putty that matches the colour of the planks to ensure a seamless look.

Cutting Planks

When you reach the end of a row, measure the gap, mark it, and cut the plank to fit. Use leftover pieces (at least 6 inches long) to stagger the seams in the next row.

Installing Subsequent Rows

For each new row, position the planks at an angle above the tongue and nail them into place using a nail gun. Be sure to countersink the nails to avoid disrupting the tongue-and-groove connection between the planks.

Installing Around Obstacles

When installing around obstacles, carefully measure and mark the area. Using a jigsaw, cut the boards exactly around the barriers, leaving a small expansion gap. For pipes, drill a hole in the board, fit it around the pipe, and firmly nail it. Ensure that the nails are driven vertically through the tongue of the board for a clean look. Always leave a small expansion gap around the edges for natural wood movement.

Finishing Up

Continue installing planks until the entire floor is covered. Once finished, remove the spacers and add transition strips and moulding if desired.

Glue-Down Method

The Glue-Down Method requires special adhesives. EWG recommends that is better the adhesive used be free of volatile organic compounds(VOCs). For best results, check the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended type of adhesive. To start the installation, Place spacers between the wall and the planks to leave a ¼” expansion gap around the room’s perimeter.

Apply the Adhesive

Starting at the corner of the room, spread the adhesive onto the subfloor for two to three rows, then use a trowel to create a thin, even layer.

The First Row

Align the tongue and groove edges, working from left to right. Press the boards firmly into place.

Continue Installation

Keep applying glue in small sections and tap each plank into place, ensuring the seams are tight.

Around Obstacles

After measuring, cutting the boards, and leaving a small expansion gap for the obstructions, apply adhesive to the subfloor in small sections and press the boards into place. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to attach each board firmly.

Finish the Installation

Remove spacers and install transition strips and moulding along the edges.